I don’t mean to sound like one of those “Remember the 70s” Facebook accounts that urge people to have their eyes watered down at Spangles and the memory of stabbing your classmate in the leg with a compass, but chocolate is not what it used to be. Dairy Milk now tastes hideous and Galaxy isn’t much better. Cadbury’s Easter Eggs, once a joy to receive, offer all the sensory pleasure of eating plastic.

No wonder the chic side of the market has grown in recent years. Hôtel Chocolat has 126 stores across the country. It also has an advertising and marketing department with speed dial television companies, as Hôtel Chocolat: inside the chocolate factory on Channel 4 follows Inside Hotel Chocolat on Channel 5.

These types of shows are still uncritical advertising for a brand, although enjoyable to watch. We see development heads testing new products on the road – in this case Easter eggs with pecan pie brownie, salted caramel cheesecake and cookie and cream toppings, and an attempt to recreate cocoa tea from the Caribbean and Mexico.

The team visited farmers in Ghana, where they gave a paternalistic talk about sustainability and saving the environment. All of this was overseen by CEO Angus Thirlwell, an ever-smiling presence who seemed to be involved in all aspects of the business down to a granular level. “I want this flake to be very thin,” he said as he inspected the machines that produce the company’s hot chocolate (which is delicious, by the way, though I manage to make it for free for their £99.95 “velvetiser” machine).

It was also interesting to see new products tested on a group of customers, who were unsure about cocoa tea. There’s something satisfying about watching chocolate being made: shiny ribbons of chocolate tempered on a conveyor belt or poured into molds. But it takes away a bit of the magic of an “artisanal” brand when you see the whole thing being produced in bulk in a vast factory.

The show was bullish, but if you read the trading pages you will have seen the company’s shares tumble last month after Thirlwell warned of weaker sales growth. The firm recently announced the closure of its stores in the United States, but this should not be taken as a bad sign: Americans are not good at chocolate. Look what they did to Dairy Milk.

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